In recent years, the use of regenerative therapies - in medicine as a whole, dermatology and aesthetics in general - has become increasingly common. The aim of these techniques is to repair cells and tissues.
“In a very simplified way, we can say that the aim of regenerative therapies is to make an ageing cell function like new again”, explains dermatologist Gabriela Capareli, a member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and the Brazilian Society of Dermatological Surgery. To achieve this goal, substances that stimulate the process of cell self-regeneration are usually used. Some are of autologous origin, produced from the body itself; others are laboratory-processed variations.
When the body itself is the source of repair
Three of the substances that have been most used in regenerative therapies are PRP, autologous exosomes and stem cells. PRP, or platelet-rich plasma, is produced from the patient's blood. Because it is rich in growth factors, this fluid has the power to stimulate cell proliferation, tissue repair and collagen production.
Autologous exosomes also come from the patient's own blood. These microvesicles, which are naturally present in our bodies, are responsible for signaling between cells, i.e. they send the commands for them to function effectively. The idea behind the use of exosomes is, once again, to improve cell performance and, with it, the quality of the skin. Stem cells, on the other hand, are obtained from fat tissue. It is now known that human fat is a rich reservoir of this biological asset.
Stem cells, on the other hand, are obtained from fat tissue. It is now known that human fat is a rich reservoir of this biological asset.
Centrifugation or ultracentrifugation are the most commonly used methods for obtaining PRP and autologous exosomes. Stem cells, on the other hand, come from fat extracted by aspiration from areas where fat accumulates (the abdomen, for example). After being aspirated, the material is centrifuged (so that there is a higher concentration of stem cells) and immediately reinjected. All these procedures must be carried out with the aid of specific equipment and following the necessary sanitary precautions.
PDRN and plant exosomes
In addition to active ingredients from the patient's own body, two other substances have been gaining the spotlight among regenerative therapies: PDRN and plant exosomes.
PDRN, extracted from DNA fragments found in salmon sperm, acts both as an anti-inflammatory and by stimulating collagen synthesis. Thanks to these properties, it has brought great results in skin regeneration.
Plant exosomes, on the other hand, have similar benefits to autologous exosomes. However, as the name suggests, they are derived from plants - mainly the damask rose.
How it's used in the office
In Brazil, only the cosmetic application of most regenerative therapies is regulated. This means that they are only allowed for topical use. Treatments associated with microneedling or other types of microperforations (made with laser or electroporation, for example), as well as their use in injectable form, are still largely considered experimental. This is especially true of those of non-autologous origin. The approval of Anvisa, the National Health Surveillance Agency, is still under study for many of them. Outside Brazil, the guidelines are the same in most countries: always apply topically.
There are indications that regenerative therapies could have even better effects when applied more deeply, through microperforations or injections. However, the current consensus is that more scientific studies are needed to prove the results that some professionals have seen when injecting these active ingredients on their own initiative. Regenerative therapies, after all, are still in their infancy and their full benefits and risks have yet to be fully scrutinized.
